If you've noticed your tap water tastes a bit funky lately, it's probably time for a nimbus watermaker five filter replacement to get things back on track. We all know that feeling when the crisp, clean water you're used to suddenly starts tasting like a swimming pool or, worse, gets a weird metallic tang. It's usually just the system's way of telling you that the filters have done their job and can't take any more hits.
The Nimbus WaterMaker Five is a workhorse of a reverse osmosis system, but like any high-performance machine, it needs a little TLC every now and then. Doing the maintenance yourself isn't nearly as intimidating as it might look when you first peek under the sink at that tangle of tubes. Honestly, once you do it once, you'll realize it's a pretty straightforward DIY project that saves you a chunk of change on service calls.
Why You Shouldn't Skip This Chore
It's tempting to push it off. We've all been there—thinking, "Eh, another month won't hurt." But here's the thing: those filters are basically the front-line soldiers protecting your health. The sediment filter catches the big stuff like dirt and rust, while the carbon filters tackle the chemicals like chlorine that make water smell and taste gross.
If you let them go too long, they get clogged. Not only does your water quality drop, but the internal pressure in the system can start to act up. Worst-case scenario? You wear out the expensive RO membrane prematurely because the pre-filters weren't doing their job. That's a much more expensive fix than just swapping out a few cartridges.
What's Actually Inside the System?
Before you start unscrewing things, it helps to know what you're looking at. The "Five" in the name stands for the five stages of filtration. Most of the time, when you buy a nimbus watermaker five filter replacement kit, you're getting the most common components, but it's good to double-check.
- The Sediment Filter: This is stage one. It's the gatekeeper. It stops the "chunky" stuff (even if it's microscopic) from getting into the more sensitive parts of the system.
- The Carbon Block (Pre-filters): Usually, there are two of these. They're there to soak up chlorine and organic chemicals. Chlorine is a nightmare for RO membranes, so these guys are super important.
- The RO Membrane: This is the heart of the system. It's the thin film composite (TFC) membrane that does the heavy lifting, removing lead, arsenic, and all those other nasties we don't want to think about.
- The GAC Post-filter: This is the "polishing" filter. After the water sits in the storage tank, it passes through this one last time to make sure it tastes as fresh as possible right as it hits your glass.
Getting Ready for the Swap
You don't need a massive toolbox for this, but a few things will make your life much easier. Grab a towel (or three) because there will be some drips. You might also want a bucket or a shallow pan to catch any water that spills out when you open the housings.
First things first: turn off the water supply. There's usually a small valve on the cold water line under the sink. Turn that until it's closed. Next, close the valve on top of the storage tank. You don't want gallons of pressurized water trying to escape while you're mid-swap.
Finally, open your RO faucet at the sink to drain any remaining pressure. Once the water stops flowing from the tap, you're good to go.
The Step-by-Step Breakdown
Now for the fun part. Most Nimbus systems use a specific housing that you'll need to unscrew. If you have the filter wrench that came with the system, now is its time to shine.
Swapping the Pre-filters
Unscrew the first three housings (the ones containing the sediment and carbon filters). Be careful—they'll be full of water and surprisingly heavy. Dump the old filters in the trash and give the inside of the housings a quick rinse. If you see any slime or buildup, a little bit of mild dish soap and a good rinse won't hurt.
Slide the new filters in. Make sure the O-rings (those little black rubber circles) are seated correctly. If they're pinched or dry, the system might leak. A tiny bit of food-grade silicone grease on the O-rings can work wonders to ensure a good seal.
Dealing with the Membrane
You don't actually have to change the RO membrane every time. While the carbon and sediment filters usually need changing every 6 to 12 months, the membrane can often last 2 to 5 years depending on your water quality. If your water flow is still good and the taste is fine after changing the other filters, you can probably leave the membrane alone for now. If you are changing it, it's usually in the horizontal housing on top.
The Final Polishing Filter
The fifth stage is usually an "in-line" filter, meaning it's not in a big plastic jar but is its own self-contained unit with tubes plugged into each end. You'll need to disconnect the plastic tubing—usually by pushing down on the small "collet" ring where the tube enters the filter—and then swap in the new one. Pay attention to the "flow" arrow on the side of the filter! You want the water going toward the faucet, not away from it.
Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks
Once everything is tightened back up (hand-tight is usually plenty, don't over-crank it with the wrench), it's time to bring the system back to life.
- Slowly turn on the water supply valve.
- Open the tank valve.
- Keep an eye on those housings. If you see a drip, give it a tiny bit more of a turn.
- Important: Don't drink the first couple of tanks of water. New carbon filters have "fines"—tiny bits of black carbon dust—that need to be flushed out. Also, if you replaced the membrane, it might have some preservative on it that needs to be rinsed away. Usually, running two full tanks of water through the faucet and down the drain is enough to get it running clear.
Some Pro Tips for Success
One thing people often forget during a nimbus watermaker five filter replacement is to check the air pressure in the storage tank. If your water flow feels weak even with new filters, your tank might just need a little boost with a bicycle pump. It should usually be around 7-10 PSI when the tank is completely empty.
Also, write the date on the filters with a Sharpie! Time flies, and you think you'll remember when you changed them, but eighteen months later, you'll be scratching your head trying to recall if it was last spring or the year before.
If you're dealing with particularly hard water, you might find that your filters get "crusty" or stuck. Don't force them. If a housing is being stubborn, sometimes a little warm cloth wrapped around it can help loosen things up.
Is It Worth Doing Yourself?
Absolutely. Aside from the cost savings, there's a certain peace of mind that comes with knowing exactly what's going on with your drinking water. You know the housings were cleaned, you know the O-rings are good, and you know the filters are high-quality.
Plus, once you get the hang of it, the whole process takes maybe 20 to 30 minutes. That's less time than it takes to watch an episode of a sitcom. When you consider that this simple task keeps your family hydrated with top-tier water, it's a no-brainer.
So, don't let that slight "off" taste linger. Grab a replacement kit, clear out the stuff from under your sink, and get to work. Your morning coffee (and your ice cubes) will thank you for it. It's one of those small home maintenance wins that feels surprisingly satisfying once it's done. Just remember: keep the towels handy, don't over-tighten, and always flush the system. You've got this!